How to use this calculator
Start by entering the total length and height of your retaining wall. If you have a curved wall, measure the total run along the face. For stepped walls, calculate each level separately and add the results together.
Next, choose your block size. The three presets cover the most common interlocking landscape blocks sold at home improvement stores. If your block has different dimensions, switch to custom and enter the width (the face you see), height (how tall each course is), and depth (how far the block goes into the hillside).
The options section lets you toggle cap blocks on or off, adjust the waste factor, and set the backfill and base gravel depths. The default values work well for most residential walls, but you can fine tune them to match your site conditions or your block manufacturer's recommendations.
Results update instantly as you type. You will see the total block count, number of courses, all supporting materials including drainage pipe and filter fabric, and a full cost breakdown with a comparison to professional installation pricing.
How the block count formula works
The calculator divides your wall height by the block height to determine how many horizontal rows (courses) you need. It then divides the wall length by the block width to determine how many blocks fit in each course. Multiplying courses by blocks per course gives the raw block count before waste.
Both of these divisions round up to the next whole number because you cannot install a partial block in the field. The waste factor (default 10%) accounts for cuts at corners, breakage during handling, and blocks that arrive damaged. For walls with curves or multiple corners, consider increasing waste to 15%.
Why backfill gravel matters more than you think
The most common reason retaining walls fail is water pressure behind the wall, not the weight of the soil. When rain saturates the soil behind a wall, it can double or triple the lateral force pushing against the blocks. Gravel backfill creates a drainage channel that lets water flow down to the perforated drain pipe at the base instead of building up behind the wall.
The calculator defaults to 12 inches of backfill depth, which is the standard recommendation for residential walls up to 4 feet tall. The base gravel trench defaults to 6 inches deep and extends 3 inches beyond each side of the block. This gives you a level, compacted foundation that prevents settling and keeps the first course straight over time.
Choosing the right block for your project
Standard interlocking blocks (12 inches wide by 4 inches tall) are the most popular choice for residential walls. They are light enough for one person to handle, widely available at Lowe's and Home Depot, and come in a range of colors and textures. These blocks work well for walls up to about 2 feet tall without any additional reinforcement.
Large format blocks (18 by 6 inches or bigger) go up faster and create a bolder look, but they weigh significantly more per unit. For walls between 2 and 4 feet, larger blocks can be a better choice because they provide more mass to resist soil pressure. Some manufacturers also require geogrid reinforcement for walls over a certain height. Check the block manufacturer's installation guide for specific requirements.
Small blocks (8 by 3 inches) are best for decorative garden borders and low landscape edging under 18 inches tall. They cost less per block but require more blocks and more courses to reach the same height, so the total cost difference is often minimal.
Frequently asked questions
How many blocks do I need for a retaining wall?
The number of blocks depends on your wall length, wall height, and block size. Divide the wall length by the block width to get blocks per course, then divide the wall height by the block height to get the number of courses. Multiply those together for the total. For example, a 20 foot long, 2 foot high wall using standard 12 by 4 inch blocks needs about 20 blocks per course times 6 courses, which is 120 blocks plus 10 percent for waste.
How much gravel do I need behind a retaining wall?
You need gravel in two places: a 6 inch deep compacted base under the first course, and a 12 inch deep backfill layer behind the entire wall for drainage. For a 20 foot long, 2 foot high wall, expect roughly 0.5 to 1 cubic yard of gravel total. The backfill gravel is critical because it lets water drain instead of building pressure behind the wall.
How tall can I build a retaining wall without an engineer?
Most building codes allow DIY retaining walls up to 3 to 4 feet tall without a structural engineer or building permit. Walls taller than 4 feet almost always require engineering plans and permits. Check your local codes because requirements vary by jurisdiction. Even for shorter walls, proper drainage and a compacted gravel base are essential for long term stability.
How much does it cost to build a retaining wall yourself?
DIY retaining walls typically cost $4 to $20 per square foot of wall face in materials only. A 20 foot long, 2 foot high wall might cost $300 to $600 in blocks, gravel, drainage pipe, and adhesive. Professional installation for the same wall runs $800 to $2,100 including labor. The biggest savings from DIY come on smaller walls where labor is a larger percentage of the total cost.
Related calculators
This calculator provides material estimates for planning purposes only. Actual quantities may vary based on site conditions, block brand, wall design, and local building codes. Retaining walls over 4 feet tall typically require a licensed structural engineer and building permits. Always check your local building codes and consult a qualified contractor or engineer before starting a retaining wall project. DoubtCalc is not responsible for material shortages, structural failures, or code violations resulting from use of this calculator.